The brilliance of white, hot peat coals, a blizzard of hot smoked fish and then squid ink, oyster sauce, singed hessian cloth and molten marmite smoothies. A heady brew of cow fields and gusts of pin-sharp, slicing, petrol-driven minerality. With water, the salty teardrops flow. Briny, tartly citric, hyper-fresh coastal aspects and things like soggy kelp, rock pools and the sharpness of flint smoke. The mouth is huge, pristinely composed and showing all manner of chiselled minerals, crushed seashells, wind-lashed rigging, zingy fisherman's friends and carbolic sourdough. With water, there's smoky wort, peppered mackerel, juniper, mustard powder and a tempestuous collision of pure peat smoke, furious wash foam, jazzy salinity, Bonjela, mouthwash, gauze, tide-dashed seaweed and a fisherman's welly brimming with soda bread, eucalyptus toothpaste and bath salts.
Cask: Refill hogshead Age: 10 years Date distilled: November 2009 Alcohol: 56.2% USA allocation: 120 bottles